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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary triumph.